Rachel Powell's stunning fashion collection is a celebration of black womanhood.
Powell grew up in rural New Jersey. When she couldn't find clothes that fit right on her body, her grandmother taught her to sew.
"That's what started my interest in fashion," Powell says, "just designing clothes that I could personally wear."
Today, Powell is a senior at Cornell University, majoring in apparel design with a minor in business. She uses her art to tell stories inspired by women often ignored. In her latest collection, Powell's personal narrative and the rarely told history of a nation built by black women are stitched into each look.
Designer Rachel Powell. Photo via Rachel Powell, used with permission.
Powell's collection, ROOTS, at the student-run Cornell Fashion Collective, is striking, beautiful, and political in equal measure.
Powell had the opportunity to share eight to 10 looks in her last show and wanted to make them count. With ROOTS, Powell designed looks that celebrate black womanhood, past and present.
"I wanted to explore the intersectionality of black women in America ... the double discrimination that they face," Powell says.
Throughout history, the voices of black women were too often ignored, omitted, or silenced. It continues today. Even Powell admitted having reservations about tackling such a taboo topic for her collection.
"I was worried about how this would be received and talked to my professors about how to do this right," she says.
Powell drew inspiration from the African diaspora, the American civil rights movement, and the women who shaped it, like Kathleen Cleaver, Assata Shakur and even a young Ruby Bridges. Her history education — and, in some cases, miseducation — also played a role.
"I'm kind of reflecting on my K-12 history ... and how we were taught the same thing over and over again without a lot of variation," Powell says. "I feel like American history is filled with a bunch of gray areas that, in a sense, our history books were able to make things very black and white."
Through thoughtful design, Powell figuratively passed the mic to powerful black women and showcased their strength, beauty, and persistence.
Photo by Julia Pacheco-Cole.
These are five of her remarkable designs.
1. The white dress
Photos by Nadia May.
On the surface, it's a stark white dress with a fit-and-flare silhouette, a classic look reminiscent on housewives in the 1950s. But this brand of purity and innocence is in direct contrast with the Norman Rockwell portrait of Ruby Bridges that Powell emblazoned on the back of the dress and the small numbers she placed on the front, which represent the night she was raped in high school.
"It's this idea of a loss of innocence," she says.
The period was a turning point in America, and that day was a turning point in her life.
2. Make America _____ Again
Photo by Julia Pacheco-Cole.
Inspired by a photo of Kathleen and Eldridge Cleaver and other members of the Black Panther Party in big leather coats, Powell made a coat of her own. On the back, an imposing red cross with the words "Make America _____ Again," a play on the president's campaign slogan.
"I kind of like giving the power to the audience to fill that in," Powell says, "... having people reflect specifically on the election and the state of ... America."
3. AmeriKKKa
Photos by Nadia May.
With the previous look, Powell let the audience fill in their own thoughts about the state of the nation. With this look, Powell gives her take.
"You have this president who ran on this platform of hate and bigotry. He was specifically endorsed by the KKK, so I was specifically addressing that," she says.
4. 13th
Photo by Nadia May.
Sparked by "13th," Ava DuVernay's Oscar-nominated documentary on mass incarceration, Powell designed a jumpsuit complete with stripes to mimic a prison uniform. While the film and the book that inspired it ("The New Jim Crow") discussed how mass incarceration affects black men, black women are hurt in the struggle as well, behind bars and afterward.
"The sleeves are extended past the hands to obstruct the wearer’s ability to move and operate, so as to represent the struggle of trying to reenter society and the workforce after serving time," Powell said in an interview with Jopwell.
5. Move over, Betsy Ross
Photos by Nadia May.
For the last piece in her collection, Powell composed a textile sample that was a loose rendition of the American flag.
"I had so many of my friends help me to hand-embroider the red detailing on the dress," she says. "My grandma, my aunt, my mom, one of my models, another one of my friends — so many people helped me on that, and I think it was ... maybe symbolic of the support system that black women need in order to overcome ... discrimination in our society."
The response to ROOTS has been overwhelmingly positive, a victory for Powell and intersectionality.
After graduation, Powell knows she'll need to balance passion projects like ROOTS and her professional goals, at least for now. Ultimately, she hopes to start her own company where she can combine the two and make a living doing what she loves.
"The attention I've been receiving from the collection has pushed me to be, like, 'This is definitely realistic. I can do this now,'" Powell says.
Indeed, she can. She has generations of persistent, capable, talented black women beside her — lifting her up, pushing her, and encouraging her.
It's in telling their stories that Powell crafts her own.
Our mouths loves chips. Our bodies not so much.Photo by 
You can eat well without giving up sweets completely.Photo by 
12 non-threatening leadership strategies for women
We mustn't hurt a man's feelings.
Men and the feels.
Note: This an excerpt is from Sarah Cooper's book, How to Be Successful Without Hurting Men's Feelings.
In this fast-paced business world, female leaders need to make sure they're not perceived as pushy, aggressive, or competent.
One way to do that is to alter your leadership style to account for the fragile male ego.
Should men accept powerful women and not feel threatened by them? Yes. Is that asking too much?
IS IT?
Sorry, I didn't mean to get aggressive there. Anyhoo, here are twelve non-threatening leadership strategies for women.
Encourage.
With permission from Sarah Cooper.
When setting a deadline, ask your coworker what he thinks of doing something, instead of just asking him to get it done. This makes him feel less like you're telling him what to do and more like you care about his opinions.
Sharing ideas.
With permission from Sarah Cooper.
When sharing your ideas, overconfidence is a killer. You don't want your male coworkers to think you're getting all uppity. Instead, downplay your ideas as just "thinking out loud," "throwing something out there," or sharing something "dumb," "random," or "crazy."
Email requests.
With permission from Sarah Cooper.
Pepper your emails with exclamation marks and emojis so you don't come across as too clear or direct. Your lack of efficient communication will make you seem more approachable.
Idea sharing.
With permission from Sarah Cooper.
If a male coworker steals your idea in a meeting, thank him for it. Give him kudos for how he explained your idea so clearly. And let's face it, no one might've ever heard it if he hadn't repeated it.
Sexism.
With permission from Sarah Cooper.
When you hear a sexist comment, the awkward laugh is key. Practice your awkward laugh at home, with your friends and family, and in the mirror. Make sure you sound truly delighted even as your soul is dying inside.
Mansplain.
With permission from Sarah Cooper.
Men love explaining things. But when he's explaining something and you already know that, it might be tempting to say, "I already know that." Instead, have him explain it to you over and over again. It will make him feel useful and will give you some time to think about how to avoid him in the future.
Mistakes.
With permission from Sarah Cooper.
Pointing out a mistake is always risky so it's important to always apologize for noticing the mistake and then make sure that no one thinks you're too sure about it. People will appreciate your "hey what do I know?!" sensibilities.
Promotions.
With permission from Sarah Cooper.
Asking your manager for a promotion could make you seem power- hungry, opportunistic, and transparent. Instead, ask a male coworker to vouch for you. Have your coworker tell your manager you'd be great for the role even though you don't really want it. This will make you more likely to actually get that promotion.
Rude.
With permission from Sarah Cooper.
Sometimes not everyone is properly introduced at the start of a meeting. Don't take it personally even if it happens to you all the time, and certainly don't stop the meeting from moving forward to introduce yourself. Sending a quick note afterward is the best way to introduce yourself without seeming too self-important.
Interruptions.
With permission from Sarah Cooper.
When you get interrupted, you might be tempted to just continue talking or even ask if you can finish what you were saying. This is treacherous territory. Instead, simply stop talking. The path of least resistance is silence.
Collaboration.
With permission from Sarah Cooper.
When collaborating with a man, type using only one finger. Skill and speed are very off-putting.
Disagreements.
With permission from Sarah Cooper.
When all else fails, wear a mustache so everyone sees you as more man-like. This will cancel out any need to change your leadership style. In fact, you may even get a quick promotion!
In conclusion...
With permission from Sarah Cooper.
Many women have discovered the secret power of non-threatening leadership. We call it a "secret power" because no one else actually knows about it. We keep our power hidden within ourselves so that it doesn't frighten and intimidate others. That's what makes us the true unsung heroes of the corporate world.
About the Author: Sarah Cooper
Sarah Cooper is a writer, comedian, and author of 100 Tricks to Appear Smart in Meetings. Her new book, How to Be Successful Without Hurting Men's Feelings, is out now.
The comedic book cover.
With permission from Sarah Cooper.
A satirical take on what it's like to be a woman in the workplace, Cooper draws from her experience as a former executive in the world of tech (she's a former Googler and Yahooer). You can get the book here.
This article was originally published on March 25, 2019.