Ken Burns digs into 'coffin'-encased pie and other intriguing Revolutionary War-era foods

When I think about the American Revolution, my brain flashes to many of the obvious images: intense battles, people dumping loads of tea in the Boston Harbor, George Washington's white-powdered hair. (Sidebar: Did you know Washington was actually a natural redhead? File that one under "WTF things I learned today.") But when I envision centuries-old historical events, I admittedly don't consider the food. What were they eating in the late 1700s, and would any of it hold up as tasty today?

That's, loosely, the intriguing premise behind Bennett Rea's recent interview with acclaimed filmmaker Ken Burns, the latter on hand to promote his new six-part documentary miniseries, The American Revolution. Rae, creator of the web series Cookin' With Congress, framed their conversation around a handful of pre-made dishes from that era, breaking down their ingredients and historical significance. Even if none of the recipes wind up as staples in your cook book, you might enjoy watching them snack on entrees from the time of Washington—"the good, the bad...and the dry," as our host describes them.

What did soldiers eat during the American Revolution?

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George Washington loved eating onions 'Brazilian style'

Speaking of the first U.S. president, Rae opens the interview by unveiling "onions, Brazilian style," which he calls one of "Washington's favorites," having been served at his "farewell dinner in 1783." It's unclear what makes the dish Brazilian, the interviewer says, describing the process of slow-roasting minced meat inside an onion. But both he and Burns seem to enjoy it, and it sparks an entire thread about Washington's "opaque" and "unknowable" nature.

There are a few other notable meals, including the militia staple "fire cakes"—basically wheat flour mixed with water, possibly with salt. "The amazing thing is that we won this revolution against the greatest empire, the most far-flung empire on Earth, eating this and worse," Burns says. They also dig into something called, flatly, "cheap dessert"—a rationing-friendly recipe from our first First Lady Martha Washington.

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But in the video's true highlight moment, the duo tries Martha's version of "hearty choke pie," made with artichoke hearts, green-grape juice, sugar, bone marrow, and butter. Notably, it's also encased in a box-like crust that Rae calls a "coffin." When they cut off the top layer, Burns hilariously remarks, "Whoa! Didn’t expect that! It looks like it came from the Petrified Forest!" Not all of the dishes earned a standing ovation—the filmmaker did use the word "yucky" toward the end of the piece. But it's certainly an educational glimpse into our past.

That's a critical point for Rae. Exploring these meals isn't just about novelty—it offers an "experiential touchpoint to the history, another way to learn." You could apply the same logic to exploring food from other time periods, including the Great Depression. We recently rounded up 17 recipes from that trying era that people still make today—a list that includes hoover stew, zaprezna soup, ash cakes, wacky cake, and water pie, among others. Some meals from that era could even make for good Thanksgiving recipes—we took a look at some intriguing options, including dandelion salad, porcupine meatballs, and old roasted hen.

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