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Photo credit: Canva (left), Vintage Japan-esque/Flickr (right)

What makes people look so classy in photos from the past?

Do you ever see photos of people from the past and feel a tinge of regret that we've let clothing styles become so sloppy? Don't get me wrong, I'm an avid fan of my sweatpants and lounge sets, but there was something classy about the way people dressed in the first half of the 20th century, even when they were just hanging around casually. Why was that?

Derek Guy, who has made a name for himself as @dieworkwear, a guru of menswear on social media, has an explanation. While expectations of dress were certainly different in the past, there are other reasons why the way-back-when generation looked so good in their clothing. And it wasn't because people were thinner, Guy says. It actually boiled down to three things: "shape and drape" styles, specialized materials, and a greater tolerance for discomfort.

"Shape and drape" styles provided more structure

"The first point — 'shape and drape' — can be seen everywhere around us, not just in clothing," Guy writes. "Even in architecture, interior design, and furniture, things look more pleasing when they have distinctive and interesting shapes. Even without the presence of a tailored jacket, many outfits in the past looked great because they conferred distinctive shapes — a boxier shirt, fuller pants, short shorts, etc. Certain techniques, such as pleats, gave volume."

"Over the years, men have slowly molted their layers — first by shedding the tailored jacket, then the necktie, and in some cases, even the collared shirt. They have long ditched hats, which conferred another type of shape to an outfit," he writes.

"The rise of slim fit, low rise pants and technical polos that cling to the body means you end up getting an outfit that's barely even there. There's very little texture, detailing, or even a distinctive silhouette. May as well be wearing two smooth pieces of Saran Wrap."

Guy also explained how proportions come into play with how clothing looks. A t-shirt that's too long or pants that are too low distort the way an outfit looks to us.

"The ratio between the upper and lower halves of an outfit will depend on the intended aesthetic (and there are many aesthetics), but the "rule of thirds" is a good starting point," he shares.

Specialized fabrics allowed for better looks with more breathability

The materials our clothing is made from has changed a lot over the past century. The rise of polyesters, acrylics, and other fabrics have altered the fashion landscape more than we might realize.

"When you look at photos of well-dressed men in the past or even today, their trousers often drape well because they are cut from heavier wool fabrics," Guy writes. "Some can still be comfy bc of the open weave."

Natural fabrics like wool tend to drape better, and the nature of wool is such that it can be warming or cooling, depending on how it's woven. We might think a wool suit would be overly hot, but when created in a lighter weight with an open weave, it wouldn't be. As a result, people could layer clothing more readily, which gives outfits more distinctive shapes and textures.

People tolerated not being 100% comfortable 100% of the time

Let's face it. We've all gotten a little soft when it comes to clothing and comfort. Why wear a button-up shirt and pants when you can wear loose yoga pants and a buttery soft t-shirt? Why wear dress shoes when it's become perfectly acceptable to don sneakers with almost any outfit?

We've sacrificed style for comfort, and maybe there's nothing wrong with that. Regardless, "discomfort tolerance" is a legitimate answer to the question of why people dressed better back in the day—they were just accustomed to being a little uncomfortable. Their "loungewear" consisted of leather loafers instead of tennis shoes and wool slacks instead of fleece sweatpants. Now that we're addicted to comfy, it's hard to go back.

Of course, some people still dress a little nicer than the rest of us, and others simply don't care. But if you do want to look a little more put together, these three style principles might just help you get there faster.

You can follow Derek Guy on X and check out his website here for more like this.


WikiMedia Commons

Twiggy, Woody Allen

In 1967, the world was Twiggy’s oyster. The English model, whose look and style had become emblems of the Swinging Sixties—think big eyes, a pixie cut, lots of mascara, and androgynous looks—had evolved from a promising teen icon into an international superstar. Her power was undeniable, her zeal for life, irreplaceable.

Yet, when director Woody Allen, 31 at the time, met the young star for a live interview, he clearly sought to knock her down a peg.

In front of the live studio audience, he asked her: “What are your views on serious matters?” At the time, the 17-year-old Twiggy was on her first visit to the United States. Her face crumbled; her lips twisted up and her eyes looked nervous as she replied, “Like what?”

twiggy, woody allen, twiggy woody allen, twiggy interview, 60s fashion, 60s icons, celebrity news “Like what?” assets.rebelmouse.io

“Like, who’s your favorite philosopher?” Allen said, his voice dripping with condescension.

Her eyes lit up in surprise. She laughed, charmingly, in what could almost pass for as delight, before admitting, “I haven’t got one. I don’t know any.” She then stuck her tongue out, before adding: “Who’s yours?”

twiggy, woody allen, twiggy woody allen, twiggy interview, 60s fashion, 60s icons, celebrity news “Who’s yours?” assets.rebelmouse.io

Everything stayed still for a second, before Allen, now the surprised one, fumbled around, and sheepishly retorted, “Oh, I don’t know. I like them all." At this point in the interview, Twiggy realized what’s going on and zeroed in with the accuracy and confidence of a hawk circling its prey. Before Allen could finish speaking, she asked, “Who?”

Meekly, Allen said “You know, all your basic philosophers…”

This time, Twiggy was ready, almost eager for his reply. “Who?” she shot back like a bullet.

“I don’t know, I just,” began Allen, before Twiggy quipped, “But I don’t know their names. What are their names?”

The uncomfortable clip ends (which you can see below) with Allen looking dumbfounded at the camera, and Twiggy in the background, coquettish as ever, sticking her tongue out.

- YouTube www.youtube.com

Like many others, when I saw this interview for the first time, I thought ‘Wow, what a badass Twiggy is.” Women face this type of misogyny all the time: timid, cowardly men who are insecure about their intelligence, taunting them about what they know or do not know in order to feel better about themselves. It’s horrible, to get caught in such a trap. Which makes Twiggy’s gracefulness—the deftness in maneuvering through such an encounter—all the more impressive and delightful.

On YouTube, where the clip was reshared by Igor Aleshin, the comments are filled with admirers of the British fashion star.

“Her retort was perfect, cheeky, funny, and totally deflected him. Well done, Twiggs,” writes @dianesilva1078.

From @mariachalke7905: “How perfectly she deflected his arrogance, but with good humor. He was already showing his colors.”

Then, from @TessaBlackwell-re8jx: “I love how the light dawns in her eyes, like, ‘Oh, you want to play like THAT. And then, it’s all on.”

Twiggy reflects, nearly 60 years later

In a more recent resurfaced clip, a now 75-year-old Twiggy remembers that fateful day. While doing press for director Sadie Frost’s 2024 documentary about her, Twiggy revealed that everything wasn’t effortless and cheeky for her that day. “He was trying to make me look stupid,” she told reporters. “My heart sank. I remember looking at him, pleading with my eyes for him to stop. If I was the age he was there, in my 30s, I would have never behaved like that towards someone who was only 17.”

@dailymailentertainment

Twiggy spoke out on her uncomfortable encounter with director Woody Allen at her premiere last night to DailyMail. In the 1967 interview, Allen attempted to humiliate her by asking who her favourite philosopher was in front of a studio audience, on her first trip to the US. 🎥 DailyMail

Lessons to be learned

Although it’s terrible, the way Woody Allen behaved towards Twiggy—publicly trying to shame a teenager—it’s nice to know that feeling scared and insignificant can really look like this: confident, badass, and undeniably cool. There are so many moment that we stop ourselves, from speaking up, from doing the right thing, from asking to be treated with respect, because we’re afraid. But Twiggy as powerfully demonstrates, both in 1967 and now, that rebellion and change can feel scary. And that’s OK.

twiggy, woody allen, twiggy woody allen, twiggy interview, 60s fashion, 60s icons, celebrity news Shake haters off, the Twiggy way. media4.giphy.com

This article originally appeared in March

History (Education)

2-minute video shows how epic Roman aqueduct engineering was, even by modern standards

It's incredible that some of these aqueducts are still in use over 2,000 years later.

Roman aqueducts are found in what is now Greece (left), France (right) and more.

The Roman Empire was famous for many things—its record-breaking longevity, its size, its emperors, its military prowess (for better and for worse) and its influence on Western civilization. But one of Rome's most impressive claims to fame is even greater than many of us realize—the incredible engineering of its aqueducts.

At some point in school, we all learned that the Romans built aqueducts to move water from place to place, and most of us probably thought, "Cool," before moving on to our algebra homework. But we may not have fully grasped just how cool the aqueduct system was or how mind-blowing the Romans' abilities were for the time period. Heck, modern water transport systems still use the same principles the Romans did, and the fact that some of the Roman aqueducts are still in use over 2,000 years later is a testament to their advanced understanding of materials and craftsmanship on top of their grasp of civil engineering.

roman aqueducts, roman empire, engineering, technology, innovation Nicopolis Roman Aqueduct in GreeceJennikann/Wikimedia Commons

A two-minute video from Learning History Simply highlights what made the Roman aqueducts such an engineering masterpiece. It started with finding a water source with a higher elevation than the destination. The Roman army helped plot out routes as engineers determined the slopes necessary for gravity to do the work of moving the water.

While we often think of the aqueducts built above ground, most of them—approximately 80%—actually ran underground through channels lined with hydraulic mortar with occasional vertical drops to relieve pressure.

- YouTube youtu.be

Settling tanks were used to remove impurities, basically slowing the water down to a speed at which sediment was able to fall to the bottom of the basin. Aeration—allowing the water to flow through open air and fountains—also served to purify the water flowing to Rome by precipitating minerals, helping it taste better and remove odors. (However, according to Engineering Rome, it's unlikely that they knew of those benefits and just unintentionally reaped them through the open air sections of the aqueducts.)

To build the underground aqueducts, the Romans used a mining technique that involved digging a vertical shaft every 30 meters, which enabled them to work faster and check alignment as they went. When they hit valleys, they would build bridges with the aqueducts on top of it, like the famous Pont du Gard. Arches higher than 20 meters became unstable, so they created tiers stacked on top of one another to gain elevation. Deeper valleys were traversed with an inverted siphon system that involved a sealed pipe flowing down and then back up again using only gravity and pressure.

roman aqueducts, pont du gard, roman empire engineering The Pont du Gard is a portion of a Roman aqueduct that supplied water to to cross the Gard river in what is now France.ChrisO/Wikimedia Commons

Another feature of Roman aqueduct engineering was sluice gates, which allowed them to stop or divert the flow of water. That came in handy for isolating sections to repair as well as for regulating pressure.

Finally, once the water arrived in the city, it was collected in a large distribution basin called the Castellum Divisorium. It was then split into different tanks at different heights—the lowest fed the public fountains, the second lowest for the thermal baths, and the top tier went to private homes. Then it was distributed throughout the city via a network of lead, wood, and terracotta pipes.

- YouTube www.youtube.com

How have the aqueducts lasted as long as they have? Scientists have long wondered what made Roman concrete so durable, and in 2023 some light was shed on the mystery. Essentially, they created self-healing concrete. Ancient Roman concrete contains white chunks, or "lime clasts," which had always been assumed to be simply sloppy mixing practices. Turns out, it may have been genius instead. The chemistry is a bit complicated, but essentially it appears that the Romans used a method of mixing their concrete with quicklime—lime in its more reactive form—at high temperatures. When cracks begin to form in the concrete, they do so in the lime casts first simply because they're brittle. But MIT News explains how those brittle casts actually self-heal:

"This material can then react with water, creating a calcium-saturated solution, which can recrystallize as calcium carbonate and quickly fill the crack, or react with pozzolanic materials to further strengthen the composite material. These reactions take place spontaneously and therefore automatically heal the cracks before they spread."

emperor augustus caesar, roman emperor, ancient rome, roman empire Augustus Caesar commissioned the first Roman aqueduct.Stephencdickson/Wikimedia Commons

And whom do we have to thank for the aqueduct system? Emperor Augustus (27 BC - 14 AD) commissioned the first aqueduct, but it was completed during the reign of Emperor Claudius (14—37 AD). The gentleman to whom its completion was entrusted was the Curator aquarum, or "water magistrate" of Rome, architect Marcus Vipsanius Agrippa. Rome would ultimately have 11 aqueducts bringing water into the city from as far as 92 km (57 miles) away, but there were hundreds of kilometers of aqueducts throughout the full empire.

Understandably, people are still impressed by the engineering of Roman aqueducts:

"I mean, having an aqueduct so good it lasts 2000+ years and it's still in use has to be in the top 10 flexes of all time."

"Unimaginable how much work must have gone into a project like this. Breathtaking display of human ingenuity. Respect to our ancestors."

"The Romans were incredible engineers. Not only did they come up with the ideas but had the ability to carry them out."

"I’ve spent all my life in construction sites and I could not imagine the effort and man power a project like this could take. Simply impressive work."

"As someone who works in the water industry… it’s absolutely crazy to me how many of these techniques and processes we use even today on modern site, almost the exact same as they did all those centuries ago, ingenuity at its finest from the Romans."

Pop Culture

Voice actor explores the 100 year journey of women using baby voices in movies and TV

Come for the incredible voice acting. Stay for the awesome history lesson.

@tawnyplatis/Instagram

Tawny Platis gives an incredible vocal performance and even more incredible history lesson.

It’s always fun to watch talented voice actors do their thing, but it's even better if it makes you think in the process. Tawny Platis is certainly a voiceover artist who can deliver both. Just a few seconds of scrolling through her Instagram, and you’ll find all sorts of videos that are delicious for both your ears and your brain—from explaining how to use your voice to be taken seriously to breaking down how AI voices really work, and more.

But one of Platis’ most recent videos, where she takes you on a 100-year journey through the evolution of women using “baby voice,” really takes both entertaining and educational aspects up a notch.

“This is a quick funny little recap of something that has a huge complicated history,” Platis writes in her video’s caption before effortlessly flitting from ultra recognizable character voices which might seem superficial, but have “been a strategic part of women’s culture forever.”

For the 1920s–1940s era, Platis dawned a high-pitched, sing-song, Betty Boop-esque flapper style voice she dubbed the “Cartoon Coquette,” which she noted was “created to rebel against serious Victorian womanhood” and which allowed women to express themselves in a flirtatious way without seeming too threatening or loose.

voice, voiceover, voiceover actor, voiceover actress, history, tawny platis, women's history Boop-boop-be-dupe the patriarchy. media4.giphy.com

Moving onto the 1950s–70s, we have Marilyn Monroe’s signature “Breathy Baby” voice, which was used to “mask a childhood stutter” and subsequently became "branding genius” and, similarly, became a way of appearing “non threatening” to the other sex who might feel “emasculated by a woman’s independence."

voice, voiceover, voiceover actor, voiceover actress, history, tawny platis, women's history She was the master of "strategic infantilization." media4.giphy.com

Then you have the “Valley Girl” voice of the 1980s–90s, which you might not immediately link to a baby voice, until you consider that it served as a “social function” to “survive in a world that tells us smart girls aren’t cool.” So in this case, "airheaded speech” actually “created sisterhood,” Platis noted, “during an era of intense economic competition.”

voice, voiceover, voiceover actor, voiceover actress, history, tawny platis, women's history Assuming girls are dumb because of their voice? As if! media1.giphy.com

The Valley Girl then evolved into the 2000’s “Reality Blonde,” aka the Kim Kardashian/Paris Hilton vocal fry so many people have STRONG feelings about. As Platis explained, this vocal placement, however dumb it sounds, was a “calculated business strategy"—essentially a way to “monetize” being "underestimated."

voice, voiceover, voiceover actor, voiceover actress, history, tawny platis, women's history Voice as branding? That's hot. media4.giphy.com

Pulling off a perfect Jennifer Coolidge impression, Platis then dived into what she called the “Camp Queen” of the 2010s. Again, I personally never would have labeled this as a baby voice, but it totally makes sense when Platis breaks down how it really is “baby talk that’s 'so exaggerated it’s now satire,'” used to make you “question why you thought women who sounded like this weren’t really that smart.”

voice, voiceover, voiceover actor, voiceover actress, history, tawny platis, women's history Does this voice make you want a hotdog real bad? media2.giphy.com

Last but certainly not least, Platis delivers the 2020s “Bimbo Reclamation” voice, which aims to “be adorable and disarm the patriarchy.” It’s attention-grabbing, performative, and very self-aware. As Platis said, “the girlies who get it, get it, and the girlies who don’t, don't."

voice, voiceover, voiceover actor, voiceover actress, history, tawny platis, women's history It's called neo-feminism, bestie. media2.giphy.com

Watch the magic happen here:

Wow, what a fun ride, right? Just so much to love here. Platis’s amazing talent, finding a new appreciation for the way women have navigated a patriarchal society throughout history, learning how seemingly unrelated trends are actually connected, and of course, discovering how our own collective psychology is reflected in literally everything.

Judging from the comments, I wasn't the only one who enjoyed watching:

“Now this is the history class I can actually stay awake for. Very well explained.”

“Yes thank you! I love when a video explains random thoughts that have been flying around my brain for years.”

“Everything you said was factual to the tone and era. Good job.”

“Bruh your talent is phenomenal! Thanks for educating us in a funny manner.”

“Love your deep dives into voice trends 💕”

For even more awesome videos just like this one, give Platis a follow on Instagram.