Textile expert shares why fishermen's sweaters have diamond-shaped underarms and other cool features
Every design element of the traditional gansey sweater has a functional work purpose.

A Guernsey fishermen's sweater knitted in the traditional method.
Hundreds of years ago, on the island of Guernsey off the northern coast of England, fishermen donned tightly woven wool sweaters before heading out to sea. These sweaters, often knitted by their wives, were designed specifically for the work they did on their boats, with each element serving a specific function.
The Guernsey sweater, also known as a gansey sweater, is still around, though finding hand-knit ones is not as common as it once was. But as the textile expert behind The Iron Snail on YouTube shares, what makes these sweaters an interesting historical artifact also makes them a durable, desirable garment for modern use. Watch:
- YouTube www.youtube.com
"This is one of the most genius sweater designs of all time," he says, "because every single tiny detail is for a specific reason."
For instance, a gansey sweater is almost always fully reversible, making for longer wear between washings. They are also usually knit in the round, which means no side seams, making them more durable and easier to repair. The knit is very tight, making them more water-resistant. They usually were made with Seaman's Iron yarn, a 4 or 5-ply, tightly woven yarn high in lanolin, which resists pilling and also adds to the water-resistance and durability as well.
If you look at old photos of fishermen, it seems like the sleeves of their sweaters aren't long enough—but the short cuffs were purposeful. If cuffs were longer, they'd get snagged on things as the fishermen worked, and also rub against their wrists. (Seaman's Iron is called Seaman's Iron for a reason. Ouch.)
Flamborough Marine is one of my favorite producers for handknit sweaters. They make in a fisherman style known as the guernsey (sometimes spelled gansey), which has identical panels from front-to-back and features a high neck collar and dropped shoulder seams. pic.twitter.com/DK2kMzI8SM
— derek guy (@dieworkwear) November 30, 2024
As for the diamond-shaped armpit gussets, that's a particular bit of genius. "Fishermen wanted a slim sleeve that didn't get caught on gear," the gansey enthusiast said, "but at the same time they wanted to be able to lift their hands up over their head and not have their sweater ride up to their belly button. And so the diamond gusset allowed that to happen."
He also explained that the top of the sweater is patterned for greater warmth while the torso was left plain to keep from snagging and for easier repair. It also saves yarn.
@sew.est Did you know ganseys were so highly prized by fishermen, that when a new vicar banned ganseys from a church in Cullercoats, the fishermen erected their own church? 🐟🧶 Quote from ‘Traditional Knitting’, Michael Pearson, 1984. #gansey #ganseyknitting #vintageknitting #knitting #knittok #knittersoftiktok #knit #knitter #fishermansgansey #vintage
Making a gansey is no small feat, as explained in the caption of the video:
"My gansey is from 'Jen’s Gansey Knits' on Etsy. She’s one person and knits 12 ganseys a year! There is also Flamborough Marine who is probably the place to look to since they have a network of knitters. Le Tricoteur is machine knit with handknit details and I thiiiiink Berties of Bay is close to 100% if not 100% machine knit.
Handknit ganseys are of course the gold standard, but be prepared for some LONG wait times and steep prices. That being said—these will last forever and ever and hand knits are usually to your exact measurements."
People really have no idea how long hand knits take, a fairly simple Aran weight sweater takes about 20 hours to make , then add in yarn cost , a gansey like this. Which is knitted on very small needles takes 120 hours ! pic.twitter.com/1Sg0dfsdz8
— Meryl Herbert (@mez1954) December 1, 2024
How much can you expect to pay for a traditionally handknit gansey sweater? We're looking at an $800 to $900 range per sweater. That may seem like a lot, but considering the number of hours and know-how it takes to make one by hand, and the fact that the sweater should last a lifetime or longer with proper care, the price seems fair. In a world of fast fashion, it's nice to see a traditional garment that is clearly built to make it through work and weather.
You can follow The Iron Snail on YouTube.




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